When it comes to celebrating the holidays, Italians bring a sense of passion that’s hard to match. The Italian Christmas season is more than just December 25th — it’s a weeks-long celebration filled with bustling markets, joyful music, elaborate feasts, and cherished customs passed down through generations. From the solemn beauty of nativity scenes to the playful anticipation of La Befana, every part of the season is steeped in meaning and marked by lively gatherings with family and friends.

Whether you’re spending the holidays in Italy or simply looking to add some Italian flair to your own celebrations, these traditions showcase the heart and soul of an Italian Christmas.

Early December

Mercatini di Natale, Florence, Italy

Christmas Market, Florence, Italy

The Italian holiday season officially begins in early December with traditions that reflect the country’s long history and deep-rooted Catholic heritage. From saintly celebrations to bustling markets and music that echoes through the hills, this period sets the stage for a festive and meaningful Christmas season.

The Feast of St. Nicholas

The Feast of St. Nicholas on December 7th honors St. Nicholas, the patron saint of Bari and the inspiration behind Santa Claus. St. Nicholas was born in what is now Turkey during the 3rd century, and is remembered for his acts of generosity and compassion. According to legend, he used his inheritance to help the poor, famously tossing bags of gold into the home of a struggling family to provide dowries for their daughters. This story forms the foundation of his association with gift-giving and later inspired the figure of Santa Claus.

The St. Nicholas festivities are especially prominent in southern Italy, particularly in Bari, where the relics of St. Nicholas have been housed since 1087. The celebration begins on the evening of December 6th with the saint’s relics taken on a ceremonial journey by boat across the bay of Bari. On December 7th, the relics are carried through the streets in a solemn procession led by participants dressed in medieval costumes.

Mercatini di Natale 

Christmas markets, or mercatini di Natale, also begin springing up in early December. Found in cities and towns across Italy, these markets offer handmade crafts, festive foods, and mulled wine. In the northern regions, markets like those in Bolzano and Trento take on an Alpine charm, surrounded by snow-covered peaks and wooden chalets. Southern markets, such as those in Naples, often focus on the sale of intricate nativity figurines and accessories. These markets are also places where locals and visitors alike gather to enjoy the holiday spirit with seasonal treats like roasted chestnuts and spiced drinks.

Zampognari

Throughout December, zampognari, or shepherd musicians, bring an old-world charm to the season. Dressed in traditional attire, these bagpipe players and their companions, pifferai flautists, travel from village to village performing carols. Their music, which evokes the shepherds who visited the baby Jesus, adds a rustic, pastoral element to the celebrations, especially in mountain towns and rural areas.

Mid-December to Christmas Eve

As Christmas approaches, Italian traditions become even more focused on preparation and reflection. From crafting elaborate nativity scenes to gathering ingredients for festive meals, this period is about building anticipation for the joyous celebrations to come.

The Nativity

The nativity scene, or presepe, is one of the most iconic symbols of Christmas in Italy. While Christmas trees have become more common in recent decades, the presepe remains at the heart of Italian holiday décor. Families create intricate displays featuring figurines of Mary, Joseph, and the baby Jesus, often accompanied by shepherds, animals, and the Three Wise Men.

In Naples, a city renowned for its nativity craftsmanship, artisans in the historic San Gregorio Armeno district sell hand-carved figures and accessories. Some presepi are simple tabletop displays, while others are elaborate, sprawling setups with entire village scenes. Public nativity scenes can be found in churches, town squares, and even caves, each one reflecting the creativity and devotion of its makers.

The Ceppo

The ceppo, also known as the “Christmas pyramid,” is another traditional decoration seen in some Italian households during this time. This wooden structure, shaped like a triangular frame, is adorned with candles, greenery, and small nativity figures. Sometimes shelves are added to hold treats, gifts, or small lights. The ceppo is particularly popular in Tuscany and evokes a rustic charm that harks back to earlier centuries.

Christmas Eve

On December 24th, Italians observe La Vigilia, or Christmas Eve, with a focus on family, faith, and food. The highlight of the evening is the Feast of the Seven Fishes, or festa dei sette pesci, a meal steeped in religious tradition. Abstaining from meat on Christmas Eve, families serve an array of fish and seafood dishes. The number seven has various interpretations, often tied to biblical significance, such as the seven sacraments or the seven days of creation. Common dishes include seafood pasta, baked fish, fried calamari, and baccalà (salt cod).

Midnight Mass

For many families, the evening concludes with Midnight Mass, or La Messa di Mezzanotte, a cherished tradition that marks the official start of Christmas. Churches across the country host services filled with candlelight, carols, and sometimes live nativity performances. In Vatican City, St. Peter’s Basilica is the focal point of the world’s Catholic community, where the Pope leads a grand and moving Midnight Mass.

Christmas Day

Italian Sweets

Italian Christmas Sweets

Christmas Day in Italy is a time for family and feasting. The centerpiece of Christmas Day is the meal, a multi-course extravaganza that reflects Italy’s deep love of food and hospitality. The feast often starts with a lavish antipasto spread, including a variety of cheeses, olives, roasted peppers, marinated artichokes, and cured meats like prosciutto, soppressata, and mortadella. These appetizers are often paired with freshly baked bread and, of course, plenty of wine.

A soup course follows, traditionally escarole soup made with leafy greens, cannellini beans, small pasta, and chicken stock, generously sprinkled with Parmesan cheese. The pasta course comes next. Popular choices include lasagna, manicotti, or stuffed pasta shells. For those who still have room, the main course varies by region and family tradition. Roast meats such as turkey, leg of lamb, or capon are common, while rural areas might serve rabbit or wild game. These dishes are accompanied by roasted vegetables, potatoes, and other side dishes that reflect the local culinary style.

Dessert is a celebration in itself, with an array of sweets that varies by region. Panettone and pandoro, two types of yeasted sweet bread, are staples, often served with mascarpone or a dusting of powdered sugar. Other favorites include struffoli, honey-coated fried dough balls; torrone, a nougat filled with almonds; and an assortment of cookies like ricciarelli (almond cookies) and pizzelle. Cannoli, with their sweet ricotta filling, are also popular. Plates of sweets are typically paired with espresso or liqueurs such as limoncello or amaro to finish the meal.

Post-Christmas

La Befana

La Befana

The Christmas season in Italy doesn’t end with December 25th. The celebrations continue, blending sacred traditions with joyful gatherings as Italians embrace the full stretch of the holiday season leading up to Epiphany on January 6th.

The Urn of Fate

One beloved tradition during this time is the Urn of Fate, a playful activity that brings families together. A large bowl or urn is filled with wrapped gifts, and each family member takes turns drawing a package. The gifts range from humorous gag items to thoughtful tokens, creating moments of surprise, laughter, and connection.

Struffoli

Struffoli, a quintessential holiday treat, makes a frequent appearance on tables during the days after Christmas. These small, fried dough balls are coated in honey and sprinkled with colorful candies, arranged in a pyramid or wreath shape. Originating from Naples, struffoli’s sticky sweetness is a festive favorite that brings families back to the table for just one more indulgence.

Epiphany

The season reaches its climax on January 6th with Epiphany, known as La Befana. According to Italian folklore, La Befana is an old witch who travels by broomstick, delivering treats to children who have been good and lumps of coal to those who haven’t. Her story is one of redemption: she was invited by the Three Wise Men to visit the baby Jesus but declined, only to regret her decision later. Now, she continues to search for the Christ child, leaving gifts for children along the way.

Epiphany celebrations often include festive markets filled with La Befana-themed items, such as candies, small toys, and decorations. Children eagerly await her arrival, and towns like Urbania, in the Marche region, host parades and events to honor this figure.

FAQs: 

Q: What is the best time to visit Italy for Christmas traditions?
A: The holiday season in Italy begins in early December and lasts through January 6th. To experience markets, music, and St. Nicholas celebrations, visit in early December. For Christmas Eve and Day feasts or Midnight Mass, plan to arrive closer to December 24th.

Q: Are restaurants open on Christmas Day in Italy?
A: Many restaurants, especially family-run establishments, close on Christmas Day. Larger restaurants or those in tourist areas may remain open, but reservations are essential.

Q: Where can I see the best nativity scenes in Italy?
A: Naples is famous for its intricate nativity figurines and displays, particularly on Via San Gregorio Armeno. You can also find live nativity scenes in towns like Greccio, where the first presepe was created by St. Francis of Assisi.

Q: Is it easy to travel around Italy during the holidays?
A: Public transportation is reduced on Christmas Day and New Year’s Day, so plan accordingly. Trains and buses typically operate on holiday schedules, and taxis may charge higher rates on these days.

Q: What are popular Christmas gifts in Italy?
A: Italians often exchange practical or food-related gifts, such as gourmet hampers, local wines, and panettone. Handmade crafts and regional specialties from Christmas markets are also common.

Q: What should I wear to Midnight Mass in Italy?
A: Dress modestly and warmly for Midnight Mass, as many churches are unheated. Women may bring a scarf or shawl, and men should avoid wearing shorts. Comfortable shoes are also recommended for standing or walking.

Did we leave out your favorite Italian Christmas tradition? Tell us about it in the comments below! 

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About The Author

Chris Caggiano is a writer and editor with decades of experience in a wide variety of topics. His real love is the theater, but he also enjoys visiting art museums, riding roller coasters, snow skiing, and collecting Swedish glass and eccentric teapots. Chris is also a theater critic and a long-standing member of the Outer Critics Circle. Chris graduated from Boston College, much longer ago than he cares to admit. And more than anything, he loves his Cocker Spaniel, Oscar.